Lidt om NZ-pinot vs rød bourgogne:
In TONG 19-NEW ZEALAND, which is almost ready to go to print, Benjamin Lewin MW writes about the different Pinot Noir styles in the country´s different regions: "For all the differences between New Zealand’s Pinot-producing regions, a certain commonality is evident. Central Otago may be the fruitiest in style, and Marlborough may be fleshier than Martinborough, which has the tautest structure, but all this is within a more fruit-forward style than Europe. Fruits are usually the dominant impression in young wines, and it is relatively rare for a wine to require much, if any, ageing after release. Pinots today are far distant from the stereotype of heavily extracted New World wines, yet they show youthful exuberance rather than the austerity one might anticipate from cool climates. It would be a mistake to judge potential quality on the basis of entry-level wines, which unsurprisingly rarely rise above the level of interest appropriate for immediate consumption. Wines at the estate level have levels of extract that would often be envied in Burgundy, yet only sometimes achieve the character that is needed for real interest. It is certainly a different story at the level of single-vineyard wines, where not only are there many insights into Pinot typicity through reflections of terroir, but the best become increasingly interesting as they age for a decade or two. One problem outside New Zealand is that the export market is dominated by the estate wines; your chance of finding one of the really interesting single-vineyard (or reserve) wines is rather slim. Another impediment to judging potential quality is the youth of the vines (exacerbated by the fact that the oldest vines are from the poorest clones); most vineyards have only just passed the stage where clonal specificity has begun to give way to site specificity. Nor is the extent of vintage variation always appreciated. It is certainly less extreme than in Europe, but is more significant than most consumers realise. Also, climatic conditions in New Zealand’s Pinot-producing regions show little consistency within a vintage, and a good vintage in one region may be difficult in another."
Just think of the trees: they let the birds perch and fly, with no intention to call them when they come and no longing for their return when they fly away. If people's hearts can be like the trees, they will not be off the Way