Vinene som jeg rendte og rodede med i Bourgogne for snart 1½ år siden er blevet smagt og beskrevet af Neil Martin fra Parker.
"Former Yarra Yerring winemaker Mark Haisma was sporting a magnificent Movember handlebar moustache when I visited him at his wine-making facility located outside Gevrey-Chambertin: proof that sporting a Village People look does not preclude you from creating excellent Burgundy wine. Before launching into an enthusiastic rendition of YMCA, I asked him to comment on the 2013 vintage. "The 2013 is pure Burgundy," he answered, moustache bristling with enthusiasm. "It´s an acid-driven vintage that is very much my style of wine-making. It reflects what I want to do with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in terms of aromatics and lift and it was far easier to achieve this in 2013 rather than 2012. That´s because the hang time was much longer in 2013 due to the cool(ish) summer. We had lovely maturity but the acids did not drop and the hallmark for great Burgundy is where you can keep that acidity. We lost more fruit in 2013 because we left it on the vine longer and so there was more rot. We had to work hard on the sorting table. We had to chaptalize, usually by about half a degree." Like other winemakers, Mark said that the wines were hard to taste prior to their malolactic fermentation but then afterwards the wines have improved remarkably in barrel.
There are not too many ex-Hunter Valley winemakers working the vines in Burgundy, but in a perverse way Mark come across as more authentic that a lot of vignerons claiming their great-grandfather was a Cistercian monk. Quantities are small but these wines are imported both in the United States and have a particularly strong fan-base in the UK where a percentage are sold directly via mail order. Ironically, the one country that seems to shun these wines is the one where he was born. Still, more for everyone else to go round. What I like about these wines is quite abstract, but there is just a lot of passion in them, a surfeit of soul. Mark has had to scratch a living in Burgundy, building his domaine up from scratch, getting enough money to pay for the fruit. And he only buys in fruit, no finished wines here, managing the vineyard himself for many, though not all, of his contracted vines. That is a crucial difference. In particular, his Morey Chaffot is a knockout this year, while his whites are extremely nuanced and packed full of flavor.
The 2013 Bourgogne Rouge has a clean and fresh, quite floral bouquet. This is well defined and pure. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, clean strawberry and raspberry fruit with an easy-drinking finish. Joyful. (86-88)
The 2013 Nuits Saint Georges le Charmotte is destemmed with no pigeage or remontage, undergoing just a light footwork in order to break the cap. The nose is very elegant and refined with fresh strawberry and raspberry scents, just a hint of undergrowth coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, clean tart fruit with a bright Morello finish. Lovely. (89-91)
The 2013 Gevrey Chambertin Croix des Champs has quite an intense, iodine-scented bouquet with hints of blueberry coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm, almost chewy tannins with good acidity cutting through. This is more backward than Mark’s other 2013s at this stage and this gutsy Gevrey will probably deserve a couple of years in bottle. (90-92)
The 2013 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru les Chaffots has a glorious nose, the kind you want to take home to your mum and dad. There are squashed raspberries and strawberry coulis, well defined with good mineral notes. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and good back bone, the three-quarters whole-bunch fruit well integrated with the character of the wine, perhaps discretely lending the finish clarity and detail. Excellent. (91-93)
Det skrev jeg også for 1½ år siden da jeg havde været med oppe at høste den lille parcel. Den bliver stor :-)
The 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is located in the top corner next to Leroy and de Vogue and contains about 50-60% whole-bunch fruit. It has quite a floral, wilted rose-petal bouquet with hints of blueberry and cassis coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannins, darker fruit that other Bonnes-Mares 2013s that I have encountered from barrel, with quite a firm structure on the finish. Very fine. (91-93)
The 2013 Santenay St Jean Village, which Mark Haisma does all the vineyard work for, has a fragrant bouquet with apricot blossom and white peach scents that are pure and defined. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity and good substance, a slight resinous/waxy note entering toward the finish that bids adieu with a spicy edge. This comes highly recommended. (90-92)
Mark is now sourcing fruit from two parcels in Saint Romaine that Mark professed his underlying love for, threatening to sell everything he has got to buy a domaine there (if he could.) The original parcel of Le Jarron is now joined by "Combe Bazin". The 2013 St Romaine Le Jarron Village has a fragrant white peach, nectarine and jasmine-scented bouquet that is very defined and focused. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity with green apple and nectarine towards the citric, lifted finish. Very fine. (89-91)
The debut 2013 Saint Romain Combe Bazin has a little more fruit concentration on the nose than its sibling "Le Jarron," with mango and pear-drop scents infusing the citric fruit. The warm microclimate comes through on the palate with subtle tropical notes counterbalanced by crisp acidity and it builds nicely to a harmonious apricot and dried-pineapple finish. Excellent. (90-92)"