Apropos Schweiz, så har Wine Advocate (Stephan Reinhardt) for ganske nyligt stillet skarpt på landets pinot noir-vine. Generelt kommer de bedste udgaver fra tysktalende Kantoner (særligt Graubünden, hvor bl.a. navnkundige Gantenbein er hjemhørende), men de to bedst bedømte producenter stammer overraskende nok fra det fransktalende Suisse Romande. I særklasse er den pressesky fanatiker, Jacques Tatasciore, fra Neuchatel, hvis bedste vin får følgende ord med på vejen:
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Jacques Tatasciore´s luminous cherry-red colored 2011 Les Rissieux offers a superbly delicate, sweet, highly precise, invitingly fresh and terroir-driven bouquet of ripe red cherries, raspberries, wild blackberries, flowers (roses and violets), herbs, spices and meat (liver). Alone the complex, multi-layered nose indicates a sophisticated world class Pinot which combines the finesse of the variety with the specific terroir conditions of Les Rissieux and the winemaking skill of the unknown Domaine de la Rochette in Cressier, Neuchâtel. No, there is no cool soul here on the nose but rather perfect ripeness and an extremely high level of finesse and precision of a warm vintage such as 2011. Full-bodied, fiery, rich and highly elegant on the palate this is a sweet and powerful, outstandingly intense, firmly structured yet balanced, silky textured and complex yet refined and persistent Pinot Noir with a warming and charming finish. Nobody knows its true aging potential but in case you don´t drink it too soon it should develop over six or more years and should keep its level more a decade or more. If you like it cooler, firmer, less sensual maybe and more intellectual you should switch to Les Margiles from the same mysterious producer. 95/100
Still, Jacques Tatasciore is a mystery to me. Based in Cressier (Neuchâtel) I just knew his name, heard about his wines but had never seen or tasted a single bottle of his Pinot Noirs which are among the finest, most delicate and expensive ones in Switzerland. At the age of 34, Jacques Tatasciore quit his former job and became a vintner in 1999. In the Neuchâtel AOC he cultivates nothing but old vines Pinot Noir (which he cultivates also by mass selections) in eight well defined parcels in between the lakes of Biel and Neuchâtel which add up to 5 hectares. With 10000 vines per hectare the plantations are dense as in Burgundy and also the jurassic limestone is almost the same. The vines are trained in the old gobelet system. Jacques´ goal is to produce top class Pinots reflecting their specific terroirs with Burgundian finesse and elegance. Therefore he and his hand-selected team pick each single grape only at the right moment, the less the better. If the wine quality does not fully convince him, he sells the material. This is why Jacques Tatasciore bottles by far the finest Pinots in Switzerland and would be still top class in Burgundy. "
Just think of the trees: they let the birds perch and fly, with no intention to call them when they come and no longing for their return when they fly away. If people's hearts can be like the trees, they will not be off the Way