"It’s unlikely that we’ll ever understand Dom Pérignon’s role in the creation of champagne, but it’s clear he wasn’t the founding father of fizz. It was a style that almost certainly existed elsewhere before his arrival at the Abbey of Hautvilliers, although it’s not easy to decide which of the contenders for the first sparkling wine has the most merit.
One is Limoux, in Languedoc. As early as 1531 – almost a century and a half before Dom Pérignon arrived at Hautvilliers – Benedictine monks at the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire, near Limoux, wrote about Blanquette de Limoux, which seems to have been a sparkling white wine that had undergone a re-started fermentation in a flask.
There are suggestions that Dom Pérignon visited the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire while on a pilgrimage, and learned the technique of making sparkling wine while there. Perhaps he did, and these were the “ancient traditions” that enabled him to “discover” champagne. But if Dom Pérignon had tasted sparkling wine at Saint-Hilaire, he should not have been so surprised when he tasted it again at Hautvilliers, that he had to shout about drinking the stars.
A little to the north, in Gaillac and in Die, wines were made that were effervescent, if not sparkling, although the imprecision of the records makes it impossible to distinguish between sparkling, pétillant, perlant, and the various other degrees of fizz we’re familiar with today. Some regions, like Gaillac, are said to have produced sparkling wine as far back as the Middle Ages. Some of the production methods are still known by names that give an impression of a long history, like methode ancestrale and methode rurale. But it’s worth bearing in mind that the méthode champenoise was known as méthode traditionelle the moment it was developed, an excellent example of an instant tradition.
France is not the only claimant to being first with sparkling wine. The Italian region of Franciacorta, which has DOCG status for its sparkling wines, claims to have produced sparkling wine in the 1500s. If it did – and the evidence is very ambiguous – it wasn’t popular enough to last, and it disappeared until revived about 20 years ago.
But perhaps the origins of sparkling wine are even more banal. In the 1660s, an English scientist, Christopher Merret, presented a paper on wine to the Royal Society, in London. It included a demonstration that adding sugar to wine in a bottle, and then sealing it, produced a second fermentation in the bottle and resulted in bubbles when the wine was opened. Merret’s scientific research areas and publications included glass-making (hence a link to bottles) and tree-bark (a link to cork). This second fermentation in the bottle is essentially the méthode champenoise.
It’s possible that Merret’s was a chance finding. Sugar was just becoming popular among wealthy Europeans in the 1600s, and they began to sweeten everything in sight – including coffee, tea and chocolate, which had not been sweetened where they were originally consumed outside Europe. The English began to add sugar to wine, as Fynes Moryson observed in 1617: “Gentlemen carouse only with wine, with which many mix sugar... And because the taste of the English is thus delighted with sweetness, the wines in taverns (for I speak not of merchants’ or gentlemen’s cellars) are commonly mixed at the filling thereof, to make them pleasant.”
It’s conceivable that, instead of putting a teaspoon of sugar in each glass, as with tea and coffee, some gentlemen added it to the bottles they brought home from their wine merchants, then sealed them for drinking a week, a month, or several months later. They might have found, when they opened the bottles, that their wine was dry and sparkling, rather than sweet and still.
It’s possible then, that early sparkling wines – and perhaps the earliest made by the méthode champenoise were made, not in the mysterious and romantic ambience of a monastery cellar, but in the cellars of London gentlemen who were simply trying to sugar up their wines to appeal to taste-preferences of the day."
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