2011 Schafer-Frohlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gewachs
A Riesling Dry White Table wine from Bockenau, Nahe, Germany
Rating: 96
eRobertParker.com #205
Piquancy of peach kernel and walnut oil really cuts through the juicy citrus and peach of Frohlich’s 2011 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gewachs, with high-toned almond extract, wintergreen, roux, and ginseng adding aromatic and palate allure. There is an invigorating and cleansing brightness, vibrancy and incisiveness here that coexists with a subtle and seductive hint of textural creaminess. If only more Grosse Gewachse could deliver half of the lift and sheer refreshment that this does, and without by any means sacrificing profundity! The smoky, stony, and salty dimensions of this sensational concentrate of Riesling and Felsenberg insure both head-scratching intrigue and saliva-inducing animal attraction. Expect to be enthralled for at least 12-15 years; and I daresay, if there are Grosse Gewachse in our time that will give chase to some of the prodigiously long-lived dry German Rieslings of yore, this is probably one of them. At a mere 20 hectoliters per hectare, incidentally, this represents by far the lowest yields of any Schafer Frohlich Riesling trocken of its vintage, but clearly, for the vines and parcel in question that was in balance, and didn’t result in a surge in potential alcohol.
Tim Frohlich began harvesting not long after the beginning of October, 2011 and finished (with his Grosse Gewachse) by the end of that month, a timetable he had already predicted when I met with him in late August. “Dry conditions and above all the low nighttime temperatures were enormously important in 2011, and distinguished it from other warm, early vintages,” opines Frohlich, adding that “vintage 2003 was the most important of my life, because I learned not to panic but to wait; and those grapes that were harvested latest were the best.” Frohlich reports very little botrytis at any point during his 2011 harvest, so that nobly sweet wines were produced only in unusually small quantities; by dint of especially rigorous selection, and as much from spontaneously shrunken (tiny to begin with), healthy, super-ripe berries. “I had thirty pickers,” relates Frohlich (for more of whose observations consult the general introduction to this report) “twice our normal crew, with six or seven people – ladies who had long fingernails – doing nothing but picking-out raisins.” He’s quick to add that scarce though those overripe or botrytized berries were, even a small number left in the material utilized for a Grosses Gewachs could easily have driven alcohol levels well over Frohlich’s roughly 13% target, to say nothing of possible effects on purity of fruit, precision of flavors, and minerality, all virtues that – like other recent Schaefer-Frohlich collections – these 2011s possess in spades. The fruit that informed this year’s remarkable Schaefer-Frohlich Grosse Gewachse was in his words “tiny, golden yellow, glowing, and knackig” – crunchy, i.e., with skins possessed of the requisite firmness, to capture only the positive aspects of which, he personally manned the presses to insure precise control over every last 2011 lot. “You could get heartburn contemplating spontaneous fermentation in a low-acid vintage like this,” notes Frohlich, who nowadays only rarely resorts to cultured yeasts, “but thankfully, the pH levels were relatively high,” which greatly increases a grower’s margin of safety. Judging by the results, everything went off with nary a hitch!